Scientific Name: Elaphe Guttata or Elaphe Pantherophis
Length: 2-4 feet on average
Lifespan: 10+ years

Housing

Glass aquariums, plastic tubs or custom wooden/plastic caging of appropriate size work well for corn snakes. A 20 gallon “breeder/long” aquarium with a secure lid works well for cornsnake of any age. Making sure the tank is escape proof is essential. Snakes in general are great escape artists and will not hesitate to make a run for it. If you prefer to use plastic tubs in a rack system, a 6qt shoebox size container works well for hatchlings, 15qt for yearlings & sub-adults and 28-32qt tubs for adults. Ventilation holes should be drilled into the container to allow for proper aeration.

It is not recommended to house more then one cornsnake in the same enclosure. The problems that arise from co-habitating include cannibalism, transmission of disease and stress (stress in itself can cause a lack of appetite in a snake), and accidental breeding. It is better to avoid a problem then create them.

Corn snakes need plenty of hide boxes. Standard toilet paper or paper towel rolls work well for hatchlings and sub-adults. Plastic bowls, found at a dollar store, works great for adults. Simply cut a hole into one of the sides and turn upside-down. Realistic hides can be found at a local pet store. We recommend that hide items chosen are easy to clean and disinfect. Make sure you supply a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in. Check water daily and replace old water every week. Keeping the water dish, substrate, and enclosure clean will insure that you snake stays happy and healthy.

Recommended substrates include Aspen mulch, Astroturf, Butcher Paper, Cypress Mulch, Newspaper, and Paper Towels. Avoid cedar shavings, cedar chips and sand. 

Temperature

Cornsnakes rely on thermoregulation to control their body temperature, aka being cold blooded. Since they cannot produce their own body heat, you must supply them with an environment for them to regulate their own body temperatures. Access to warms areas or a basking spot is very important to your snake’s health. To maintain health, cornsnakes must be kept at 75-85 F, using the higher temperatures to digest their food. A commonly used method is using a under tank heater on the bottom of the tank. UTH’s usually are adhesive on one side so that they may be stuck directly to the tank. Flexwatt heat tape is another option to provide belly heat. With any heating device, a thermostat to control the temperature is a must, and it would preferably have a temperature probe. A digital thermometer is also essential to accurately monitor temperatures.

Breeding

Cornsnakes are some of the easiest types of snakes to breed. During the fall and winter months some people bring the temperatures down to simulate hibernation. With reptiles, this is called brumation. Not all people do this and it is not mandatory, but some people believe that it helps chances of successful breeding. Then most people begin to put there males in with there females in march and ending as late as may. You should keep your male in with your female for a week or two. you may want to do this several times to be sure breeding has occurred.

egg laying

Once you confirm that your female is pregnate technically called gravid, you should prepare an incubator. a good range for cornsnake eggs is between 75-88 F. Some people place there egg boxes in warm places, others make there own incubators, and most people buy there incubators. When your female sheds after breeding trials have ended, egg laying is usually near. This shed is called the pre-lay shed. You should put a container with a large hole in it that is closed in the top with damp sphagnum moss in it for her to lay her eggs. 

Incubation 

Once ALL eggs are layed you should take them out and put them in a container with damp sphagnum moss,hatchrite, or other such egg hatching substrates. (be sure not to turn over the eggs or the embryo will drown in the yolk) Be sure to put a lid on your container and have no holes in it. You may want air holes, but it is generally accepted that if you open the box up once a week the eggs will get enough oxygen, and it will keep humidity up, but that is your choice. You especially don’t want holes if you do not place your egg container in an incubator. Be sure to keep humidity at 85-95 %.